Category Archives: Cuisine

The Braais that Bind

Posted on December 9, 2019 by Tony

A brief meditation on the meanings of South African cuisine for Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown. Excerpt:  South Africa’s identity is complicated, contested and unresolved. While Archbishop Tutu’s “rainbow nation” remains a noble aspiration, the current forecast is increasingly stormy. So, … Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine, Situation Report | 2 Comments

Yummy yummy Umami

Posted on March 24, 2008 by Tony

Why a leftover lamb bone turned a bean stew into an ecstatic event Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 8 Comments

A Stateless Dinner

Posted on March 4, 2008 by Tony

So American “Chinese” isn’t really Chinese. Well what’s “Indian,” or “Italian” for that matter? Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 13 Comments

The Long March of General Tso

Posted on June 20, 2007 by Tony

Don’t Try This At Home: (No Chinese chef would dare!) Chicken chop suey is an American creation I’ll freely admit to being a sucker, at least occasionally, for the sweet and starchy Hunan/Canton/Sichuan fare — cooked by people who were … Continue reading →

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Combat Rations

Posted on November 24, 2006 by Tony

Lunch with the French Special Forces Okay, at the prompting of Hungry Pat, another cuisine posting. Quick quiz Which army would you be in if your Meal Ready to Eat pack contained the following: Potted Meat of Mackerel Stewed Beef … Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 22 Comments

Eating Sandals in Red Hook

Posted on July 26, 2006 by Tony

Other people’s pupusas Okay, I’ll tell you, because I trust and respect you. And actually, because the Gothamist alreayd told you about it two years ago. The best-kept food secret in Brooklyn is a sandal. A huarache to be exact. … Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 8 Comments

Foul For Love

Posted on April 1, 2006 by Tony

The thing about chowhounding, is that sooner or later the New York Times always catches up and turns your favorite little outer-borough mama’s-kitchen haunts — that you either happened upon or were clued into by more energetic and committed chowhounds … Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 43 Comments

Singh Country

Posted on November 11, 2005 by Tony

How about a nice cup of chai? Hollywood’s traditional idea of a New York cabbie is probably Robert De Niro’s alienated Vietnam vet Travis Bickle, or the wiseguy Jews, Italians and Poles of the 1970s TV hit show “Taxi.” But … Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 4 Comments

What Makes Food Jewish?

Posted on September 23, 2005 by Tony

Originally published in the Anglo-Japanese magazine Eat in August 2000 There’s nothing more Jewish than fish on Fridays. Or so I thought, growing up in a household that tucked into pedestrian fried hake and chips every week after blessing the … Continue reading →

Posted in A Wondering Jew, Cuisine | 20 Comments

Catering Camp David

Posted on September 9, 2005 by Tony

Only Clinton had an appetite for a deal Published in the Tokyo-based magazine Eat in September 2000 Just what were those crafty Americans up to? The only soupcon of information tossed out to a ravenous pack of journalists after the … Continue reading →

Posted in Cuisine | 8 Comments